Winter Bouldering and GHSP Seasonal Area Closures

25 Dec

imageSome areas in GHSP typically close with the Winter season. These areas include the Listening Rock Trail and the sub-areas of the LRT; Moonlight, Ginseng, Wildwood, and Back of Beyond. Also the Picnic Area closes with the season. These locations are closed due to the difficulty in plowing the Winter snow accumulation which is often several feet deep and persists late into the Spring. If you are determined to climb at these locations you can trek in past the gate on foot, but this is certainly not recommended. The distance on foot through ice and snow to the LRT is tedious at best, and the walk out of the Picnic area  on foot is a bear even during the Fall.  The approximate timeframe for their re-opening is the 5th of May, but a light Winter and warm Spring can bring about earlier openings. Throughout the Winter, and if you are an intrepid cold-weather boulderer, there are areas in the park that never close due to weather. These areas are (excluding an apocalyptic snow storm, where you couldn’t reach the park without a snowmobile or dog sled team in the first place); AVP, Boneyard, Contact Station, and the Highlands. Happy climbing, and happy holidays!

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Protect America’s Climbing

16 Dec

Access

Problem Of the Week #15: Strength Generator (V10)

6 Dec

Strength Generator is a new one from this past summer. I put up a sit start to the classic highball “strength in numbers”(v5) 1 Strengthwhich I called “Strength of One“(V8). Further to the right is another classic line called “The Next Generator“(V4). Both the V5 and V4 are original GHSP lines done in the early 1990s by Jim Horton and a few other NC crushers. I thought that linking the tough new sit start moves of “strength of one” and trending right to gain the start of “generator” 2.5 Strengthwould be cool, and the holds were there. After exploring the moves  I realized the line was going to be pretty tough for me, and ended up taking a couple of weeks to figure out and finish. Since it involved moves from “Strength of One” and “Next Generator” I named it “Strength Generator“(V10~). So far it3 Strength has not -to my knowledge- seen a second ascent, owing to the fact that it was done after the release of the guidebook (look for it, and “strength of one” in the 2nd edition!). If you do it please let us know what you think!

Strength Generator is on the Front Wall, a 2min3.6 Strength walk from the LRT parking lot. The sit start is in a low undercling. Make a tough move off of bad feet to the higher bad crimps. Make a big dynamic reach far and right out to a perplexing pocket/crimp/pinch hold (the hold is formed by a pink colored dropstone). Move into the crazy side-pull hold to the right, and5 Strength then link into the juggy start for “next generator.” Finish out the highball-ish V4 through crimps and jugs up high. 15+ moves and a jumbled landing, so bring plenty of pads!

While not listed, the location of this line would be found on in the GHSP Bouldering Guidebook on pages 110-111. Mountain Project page link: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/front-wall/107282005

$$ Prices Increase at GHSP $$

3 Dec
GraysonHighlandsStateParkVA

Jeff Greenough Photo (Jeff is a photography wizard)

I received notification from GHSP that in 2014 there will be a fee increase for several aspects of park visitation and use. This increase is coming from somewhere “above” in the VA State Park system, so increases could be seen in other state parks across the Old Dominion as well. For camping, standard sites will stay the same but electric and water campsites will be $30. Parking fees will be $4 on weekdays and $5 on weekends.

GHSP is working to limit the increase for overnight backpackers as they have very limited use of park facilities. While this doesn’t help out visiting climbers (unless you are going on an overnight Mt. Rogers bouldering expedition, which you totally should), the increase will help out the state park system in the long run and that certainly is a good thing. The best way to go about this, if you are a frequent GHSP climber, is to cough up some dough and buy yourself a parking pass. A parking pass pays for itself after eight visits.money

Problem Of the Week #14: Moonlight Sonata (V3)

26 Nov

Beethoven Moonlight Sonata

Moonlight Sonata is one of those problems that you do every chance you get.3 Its highball, but not so highball that you think “what the hell was I doing” once the adrenaline wears off. Its scary, not because you would be seriously injured if you fell, but because the spice of the problem waits at the top. Its also one of the most unique rigs around because you get to not only paddle out a surfboard-like feature, but you can shimmy in-between the “surfboard” flake and the boulder for a full-on recliner rest (eat your heart out Moonshine Roof) midway up the climb. Anyway, Moonlight Sonata is the berries, and make sure you try it out next time you are around the LRT.

Moonlight 2Moonlight sonata starts off at the base of the huge overhang, to the far left, on an obvious jug/chunk for the sit start. Work up and into the long seam that forms the huge plank/surfboard/flake feature. Campus, dangle, or heal-hook your way to the end of the surfboard or until you can reach the holds above it.

Take some time to hang out on the surfboard, or continue on, following the good holdsMoonlight 3 up and left to the obvious juggy, chunky goodness at the top left. While topping out, there is an added bonus. Use the small Yellow birch tree at the top to finish the climb. While it is obviously up to you to use it, the climb is rated as such with the tree “on” to avoid having to remove and harm any further vegetation. If you don’t want to use the tree, that’s fine, but don’t clean the boulder any further please!

To the right is a much bolder V4 called Bad Moon Rising which I’ll be sure to cover in a later post. Moonlight Sonata and surrounding problems located in the Grayson Highlands Bouldering Guidebook on pages: (147-149). MP page link: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/moonlight-sonata/107612757

Enjoy the Thanksgiving Holiday!

GHSP Bouldering Closures Starting TOMORROW!

1 Nov

backgaraund-sports-gallery-sport-hunting-free-135827Attention! Grayson Highlands State Park will be closed to climbing (and basically everything else), except for the beautiful Highlands Area on these dates: The 2nd (yes that’s tomorrow), 4th, 5th, 18th, and 19th of November. Sorry for the short notice, it sort of snuck up on us. This is a yearly lottery hunt to control the enormous and unchecked population of TR_Buckskin_Tiffany_Knifewhitetail deer in the park. No climbing or visitor use of the majority of the park will be permitted during these days. Hunting is not permitted on Sundays in the state of Virginia, so you are in the clear there. So remember, don’t come to GHSP to climb tomorrow, the 4th & 5th, and the 18th & 19th unless you plan to climb exclusively in the Highlands Area.

Also of great importance is the opening of general deer hunting in state and national forest near and adjacent to GHSP. This occurs from the 16th-30th of November. You will need to bring blaze orange intofree_deer_hunting_tips_big_buck11 the forest if you will be climbing in state of national forest property. People get shot all the time, so don’t let that happen to you. Wear orange clothing, paint your face, and cover your crash pad in an orange trash bag, whatever it takes… You don’t want to end up on the wrong side of the barrel on this one.

Update: Endemic, Endangered Flower in GHSP

1 Nov

I announced a few weeks ago that an extremely rare and federally endangered flower was discovered growing on a rocky outcrop in the vicinity of one of the most popular bouldering areas in Grayson Highlands State Park. This flower has never been found growing in the State of Virginia before, and has previously been known to only twelve isolated mountaintops to the south. The Roan Mountain Bluet (Hedyotis purpurea var. Montana) is a member of the coffee family (Rubiaceae), and produces heterostylus flowers (flowers with styles of differing length).7398677978_042f95267e_z The Roan is a compact, clump forming perennial which produces flat topped clusters with 1 to 4 deep red-purple flowers that bloom from May to September.

The Roan Mountain bluet grows at relatively high elevations, especially for Appalachia (above 4,200 ft), in shallow soils and crevices of cliffs and rocky outcrops, and on thin rocky soils of grassy balds. This species prefers acidic soils and to grow in forests with Fraser fir (Abies fraseri) and red spruce (Picea rubens). If you have ever visited GHSP and taken note of the ecosystems there, you will no doubt realize that GHSP has all of the above, and plenty of it. The specific clusters that were found are living on an exposed rocky outcrop edge habitat, mostly in shallow soiled pockets.

As listed, the top threat listed for documented populations of the Roan Mountain bluet is: Trampling by Hikers and Climbers.

I made plans toRMap_02175 come up and assist with the recreational impact survey, and to help assess what boulders would need to be shut down to climbers if the population was found to be growing on established boulders, or boulders that may see impact in the future. While it would suck to lose a popular boulder such as The Hive, AVP, or Olympus, it would simply not compare to endangering such a beautiful and imperiled species such as the Roan Mountain bluet.

I got the recap of the initial population survey and the flowers were found to be growing primarily in a singular location, and not immediately threatened by the current scale of bouldering in the park. This does not mean however, that we as96313827_LXfV3sQl_RoanMounta_ontana climbers do not pose a threat. This shows that irresponsible, unneeded cleaning and climbing related damage to the fragile ecosystems in GHSP could do serious, and in the case of endemic and isolated species such as the Roan, irreversible harm. As boulderers, we too are hikers and should strive to tread lightly. Please do not remove or damage plant life in GHSP, or anywhere you climb for that matter. Enjoy the complex and astonishing ecosystems that we get the opportunity to experience in areas like GHSP, and respect it. Just getting the chance to be in a place that harbors fragile endemics and rare species such as this bluet is an incredible thing. The fact that we are allowed to climb in such a place as this is truly special.

Problem Of the Week #13: New Problems on the (also new) Arachnid Boulder

11 Oct

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I haven’t posted a new POW (Problem Of [the] Week) in quite a while, possibly a couple of months. I’m well into my 2nd semester of grad school here at Appalachian State University in lovely Boone NC and I’ve been pretty swamped with assignments.  I figure a great way to make up for the lack of posts is by listing a brand new boulder in a new location (for bouldering anyway) in GHSP, and the 3 awesome new problems found there.IMG_4358

Early on during my summer spent living in GHSP (this past summer) I guided a nature hike along the Cabin Creek Trail. On the loop out from the creek and waterfalls below I noticed a craggy spot higher off the trail and a clearing. I ran back after the hike to investigate. I found several smaller, blocks that I wasn’t very psyched about, and then further on a big, steep, proud block. On the face of the block was a huge, intricate spider web and a colorful, fat, feisty Orb Weaver spider that seemed indifferent to my flailing as I climbed past.

The rear (slope facing), steep, tall, main face is incredible and the taller of the twoIMG_4371 sides has a fun, easy, juggy, vertical to arching warm-up crack. The rock type is the same as the Highlands Area, only this boulder has been more sheltered from the weather over the years. This boulder is coarser than most of what is in the Highlands. The opposite side needs some cleaning and may reveal another easy line or two. Further around from this may be a one/two move wonder to a tall and easy slab/scramble… Other than these possible climbs still in the rough, I FAd three great ones; Black Widow, Orb Weaver, and Recluse.IMG_4374

Recluse (V0/1): There is only one large crack on the boulder to the right of the the arête. This line begins on a large side-pull jug. Toss up to the huge crack, and you climb up until the crack trends left. Follow the jugs or massive knob/bulges to the easy top. This line is easily protected with a single pad. The landing is level, and the holds throughout range from big to huge.IMG_4384

Orb Weaver (V5/6): This problem was a lot of fun to discover and climb. It has a little of everything. The problem starts on the right side of the main steep face. Sit start at the good one-handed jug chunk (right hand), and with a left hand below the jug, pinching the angular, left facing, smooth side-pull. Make a huge move to deadpoint the deep three finger pocket. I thought this move would prove easier, but I was wrong! Following the deadpointIMG_4400 pocket, work directly up the face through tricky beta and crimps to good holds and the big ledge feature. At the end you can expect to top out through beautiful jugs.

Black Widow (V7): Crimps! This problem is a crimp masters dream come true, and a crimp haters worst nightmare. The holds here are small, but not particularly harsh. The texture is smoother than most ofIMG_4418 GHSP. Black Widow is to the left of the back main steep face. Start low-ish with your right hand in the interesting, deep, right facing, dark colored jug. Your left hand is a slightly higher crimp. Post a high right foot and blast up to the higher (right) in-cut crimp/pinch. work directly up through more crimps and nice jugs to the tallish top. The top out has really nice jugs as well… This was a summer time send, so I graded the problem expecting it to feel easier in the Fall.IMG_4429

Directions to this boulder: Hike down to the split in the Cabin Creek Trail (~5min once you enter the rhodos from the field) and at the split in the trail, head right (don’t follow the left trail with the small “cabin creek” arrow sign). After the split, follow the trail for approximately a minute and break off of the trail, uphill, to the craggy area. There will be an old, rusting fenceIMG_4359 (to keep the wild ponies from making there way down to the waterfalls I presume) that is easy to step over near the boulder. Past the fence, look (walk) right for the big steep boulder.

I cleaned and put up these problems in a day, and aside from searching for other boulders in the area, I haven’t returned to this block. I plan to return this Fall, but would love to hear your thoughts and see photos! I don’t spend a lot of time considering grades to new problems, so please let me know your opinions.

-This boulder is not listed in the Grayson Highlands Bouldering Guidebook-

Mountain Project Page: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/cabin-creek/108154594

Grayson Highlands State Park: Fall Festival

14 Sep

The 2013 Festival will be held Saturday, September 28 and Sunday, September 29 from 10:00 am until 5:00 pm

“Since 1976 the Rugby Volunteer Rescue Squad and Fire Department, Inc. and Grayson Highlands State Park have entertained tens of thousands of people with their live exhibits of Appalachian culture. Step back into a simple age when horses and mules ground cane into juice to be boiled into sorghum or molasses; when apple cider was the soft drink of the time; when fresh apples were cooked in a copper kettle over an open fire all day long to render apple butter; and when Saturday night was reserved for fiddling; and making music with the neighbors. Such was the lifestyle of the early Appalachian pioneers.”

If you are thinking of taking a long weekend to boulder at GHSP, you should aim for the weekend of the 28th and 29th. The Fall Festival is a lot of fun, and held at the Picnic Area of the park. Boulder at the Rock House and Olympus boulders and on rests between crushing your favorite problems you can get a cold drink and warm food while listening to live bluegrass…

Above The Rest

31 Jul

A recap of the Ribbon Cutting event for the Split Rock and Haw Flats was on the front page of The Declaration, IMG_5075Independence VA’s newspaper, in the July 31st Vol – No. 31 edition. It not only recapped the event but also described bouldering in the park, the guidebook, the boulderfield map, and the trail itself. Bouldering, while gaining continual and steady popularity in America, and being embedded in many parts of the U.S. for decades, is still relatively new in Southwest VA and basically unheard of locally outside of Grayson Highlands State Park.

Seeing heavily stickered cars, strange people with spongebob-like backpacks, and walking past groups of sweaty, chalk covered, sometimes bloodied people standing around the rocks has no doubt been a strange happening over the past few years. This edition of the Declaration is a greatIMG_5077 opportunity to spread the news about this new “bouldering” scene locally and to get kids near the park psyched on their close-to-home stock of big blocks.

For the past two years, from the months of April-September, I have run the Bouldering 101 program for the park. This has given me the chance to teach kids in the area about bouldering safety and techniques along the Listening Rock Trail. Many of them have returned multiple times, keep track of the event schedule, and have become pretty excellent boulderers! Nearby Abingdon VA has just constructed a small bouldering wall in their high school gym, and it is my hopes that some of these kids too get psyched on their local scene. Seeing support for climbing grow from a small core of pebble wrestlers to a community wide awareness over the past several years has been a truly awesome experiance.